How to spot a quality vintage find

Not every old thing is worth keeping, and the difference is usually visible in a minute or two. Here is the short list we run through on every piece before it goes on the rack.

Start with the seams

Run your hand along the inside seams. Tight, even stitching is the mark of a well-made garment. Loose threads and skipped stitches mean the piece was made to be worn a season and thrown away.

Feel the fabric

Natural fibres age more gracefully than synthetics. Cotton, wool, linen and silk soften and improve with wear. Polyester does not: it pills, it holds smells, and it does not breathe. Rub the fabric between your fingers and ask yourself how it feels.

Check the hardware

Zippers, buttons and snaps should move freely and sit flush. A stuck zip is a repair, not a dealbreaker. A missing button on a nice coat is worth more to you than a new one from the factory.

The good ones do not linger. That is the nature of one of one.

Look at the lining

A lined jacket or skirt hides most of its story in there. Clean and intact is great. Gently mended is fine, and often tells you the piece was loved.

Trust the label

A known label with a made-in tag is a head start, but no label is not a red flag. Plenty of the best vintage is homemade or unbranded.

Wash it in your head

Can you see it in your wardrobe next week? A cheap deal on something you will never wear is not a find.